In this article, Im only going to discuss my experiences in Chipping; tuning will be disscussed later, in a new Article. About Chipping -Why do we Chip?

1. Pokemon Rom Editor

ROM Editor tuning software. If you are interested in tuning Hondata systems for other people see the dealer. With the s200 it is recommended to cut jumper.

- So, you dont quite understand just 'WHY' people chip. Chipping your ECU allows you to essentialy take full control of your ECU/motor.

Hondata RomEditor4 ECU Drivers by Hondata, Inc. Versions: 2.0. The s200 Series Hondata ROM Editor lets you. I can see a “ Hondata Certification” course where professionals learn how to use this awesome tool that can.

After Chipping the ECU, you can use programs such as Uberdata, Crome, Hondata to dial-in your motors Air Fuel Ratio's, and Timing, to squeeze out every last ounce of power from your engine.The programs not only allow you to make more power, but they give you A LOT of other cool features as well; things like Launch Control, the ability to Lift Flags (rev limits, Speed Limiter), Change rev limits, VTEC Cross Over, and the ability to Add Boost Functions in order to keep your Boosted honda motor intact, and making gobbs of power. Chipping your ECU is the Ultimate way to make power safely and reliably. What is Chipping? - Hopefully you now have an understanding of why we Chip the ECU; now it would be useful to know exacty WHAT chipping is.

As you know, chipping gives you the ability to alter the way your Engine runs as a whole. What exactly IS chipping.

In order to chip your ECU (OBD1) your going to need to buy the neccessary components to complete the Circuit board, and then each part must be soldered into place. The whole point of chipping is to give you the ability to to insert a ROM.

The ROM is the chip that you burn your tune's to; they contains all the different characteristics that you adjused in your ROM editor (Uberdata, Crome, Hondata). Now that some of the What and Why is out of the way, lets get into the HOW of chipping the ECU. How to Chip -The Parts For the ECU - Ironically, Radio Shack, a place not well known for their semi conductors, has almost everything you need to chip. But of coarse, they dont have the IC, or the ROM; so those you may have to send away for, depending on what major computer stores are in your area.Two 0.1 Uf Ceramic Disc Capacitors -One 1k Resistor (1/4 watt) -One 74HC373 IC -One EPROM or EEPROM (27C256/29C256 -One 28 pin DIP socket Those are All the Parts that you must add to the ECU.

Bellow i will list a few item that should make the process run a little smoother.Desoldering Wik - This is a Coper Wire Braid that is used to LIFT the solder off of the PCB board. It makes for a MUCH faster desolder, and a Cleaner work are after Desoldering. Not only that, but it can be used in small places easily as opposed to a desoldering Iron or a solder sucker. Also - It should be noted that Desoldering wick does NOT produce static elecrtricity, unlike some solder suckers. Ill Explain more on how to use this later.Rosin Core Solder - This Solder will flow Beautifully to the PCB board and components, and will keep your soldering Iron Clean at the same time. About the EPROM/EEPROM - Not all the parts use to chip are important enough to learn about in depth. Im not going to talk about the Capacitors, Resistors or IC; just know that you need them in order for your chip to work.

Our main focus here, is to inform you about Chipping right? SO, it would be good for you to know about the chip that makes this all work; the EPROM/EEPROM. EPROM stands for Erasable Programable Read Only Memory. This should bring you to the conclusion that you can Erase the Eprom, Write to the Eprom (program), and that the ECU reads the Program stored on the Eprom, easy enough. The EPROM is what is known as the 'chip' when we talk about chipping.

It is the key to the entire operation, and without it, going through the trouble of chipping would be useless. EPROM's are erased using a UV light that has a special frequency; not just any old UV light will work. Eprom's usualy take about 10 minutes to fully erase. There are specially made EPROM Erasers that have a built in timer, and can hold about 8 Eprom's at one time to ensure full erasure; they usually cost from $65 to $85. The Part number for the EPROM needed in the ECU is 27C256. From what i understand few Eprom's will work trouble free in the ECU, but this one does. There is also another type of ROM that can be used in the ECU.

It is known as an EEPROM. An EEPROM is the EXACT same thing as an EPROM with the exception of being Electrically erased by the ROM Burner/Reader/Eraser (instead of using a UV light). These Roms are erased withine seconds, and allow for a MUCH faster turn around time when it comes to burning, erasing, and reburning Chips. The ECU - Ready to Chip? Tools Needed -Philips Screw Driver (the one shaped like this (+) ) -Soldering Iron (15-30W) -Desoldering Wick or Desoldering Iron - I prefer the wick, its easier to get into smaller places; works a WHOLE lot better, and is a million times easier to use. 1) Plug in the Soldering Iron and let it heat up.

(Fig 1) 2) Remove the Front and Back Covers from the ECU. (Fig 2) Now, look on the PCB board, and find the area outlined by a Dashed line. If you still cant find. Follow these steps - A) Set the ECU in front of you with all the Components on the ECU facing up. B) Now put the Plug side of the ECU facing towards you and look to the top right.

You should see the Outlined Area there. (Fig 3 & 4) OK. Now is the time to build up your confidence. Take out your Heated Soldering Iron, and let the Fun begin. 3) Place the Desoldering Wick over the solder point you are trying to Desolder on the PCB. 4) Now, place the Heated Soldering iron on top of that. (Fig 5) Allow the soldering iron to heat up the Coper Wick, and you will notice the wick suck the Solder right off the board.

If you happen to come accross a Point that does not desolder within a minute or two leave it alone, and allow it to cool, then come back to it later. Overheating the Soldering point will lift the Trace off the board, and can ruin your ECU; to the point were it will ONLY be useful in stock form - Chipping the ECU after ruining a trace is just about impossible, without repairing the trace first. Continue removing the Solder from the Rest of the joints - Remove the Solder from: J1 74HC373 27256 C51 C52 R54.Please reference (Fig 6).

After inspecting the board, making sure that all the desoldered places for each component are clean, you you can then place each new component in its designated place. 5)Be sure the existing components on the Circuit board are facing up, and begin to install your new parts: a) The IC (74HC373 Chip), goes into the spot labled '74HC373'. BE SURE THAT THE NOTCH IN THE CHIP FACES THE SAME ORIENTATION AS IT IS PRINTED ON THE ECU BOARD B) Place the two Capacitors into their respective spots. One cap needs to go in C51, and the other into C52. THe oreintation of these these types of Caps on the Board doe NOT matter. An easy way to hold the chip in place after inserting them is to bend the leads away from eachother on the back of the ECU.

C) Insert the Resistor into R54. Again, there is no polarity on the resistor so its orentation on the Cirtuit board does not matter; you CANNOT put it in backwards, even if you tried. D) Put the 28 Pin DIP socket into the Space labled '27256'. AgainBE SURE THAT THE NOTCH IN THE DIP FACES TOWARDS THE PLUG SIDE OF THE ECU, EXACTLY HOW IT IS PRINTED ON THE ECU BOARD. Its not NECCESSARY to do this for the socket, but it is a friendly reminder for you (or anyone else who works on your ECU) to remeber how the chip needs to be place in the ECU. E) Use a cut lead from either the resistor or from the one of the caps to make a Jumper on J1. Or, you can just use a small wire to do the same thing.

6) Apply solder to each point on the Chip, IC, Caps, and resistors. Be sure not to Bridge any connections. A bridged connection can cause a Short when you turn on your ECU.Fig 7 Thats it. Wasn't so hard was it?

All thats left is for you to burn a Base map onto one of you 27c256 Chips, and to install it into the 28 Pin DIP socket. AGAIN, be sure that when you install your chip, the NOTCH in the chip is facing TOWARDS the plug side of the ECU, EXACTLY HOW IT IS PRINTED ON THE ECU BOARD! Images Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 - You now have the know-how, and ability to take full control of your motor to make power safely and reliably. Anthony a.k.a rudeludenotmeanthough.NOTES.

J1 - The Jumper can be substituted by an On/Off Switch in order to toggle back and forth between Stock Maps, and Modified Maps. ALSO, switching between maps WITH that car running is TOTALLY SAFE. Nothing.should.

be harmed, so long as the switch between ROMS is made while the car is idling; i have done and verified this on my own and a friends car. The Links to the Pictures needs to be added - A new host for the pics is needed as well. If your car has obd1 plugs for the ecu you can use these ecu's. If you car has other plugs, you can get a conversion harness to make yoru plugs obd1 and then you can use these ecu's.

If your car is vtec you need a vtec ecu. If your car is non-vtec, you can use any of these ecu's: P05 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic CX (D15B) P06 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic DX (D15B) P07 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic VX (D15Z1) P08 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic/CRX VTi/VXi (sohc vtec) PR4 (: 92-93 OBD (Integra RS/LS/GS (B18A) P28 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic Si/Ex (sohc vtec d16z6) P61 (: 92-93 OBD (Integra GSR (dohc vtec b18c) P71 (: 92-95 OBD (Integra (sohc vtec d16a) P72 (: 94-95 OBD (Integra GSR (dohc vtec b18c) P74/75 (94-95 OBD (Integra RS/LS/GS (b18b) these are the parts for chipping an ecu. Some are necessary, some arent.

Some of the ones that arent, are highly suggested though: HONDA1 - honda ecu chipping kit, this is the kit required to actually chip the car. Includes one chip: C2 SST 27SF512 Chip, if you want additional chips. The above kit includes one of these: LC-1 Lambda Cable w/ O2 Sensor (Standalone WBO2). Not necessary, but suggested.

It is required if you plan to datalog with air/fuel ratios in the datalogs. It also can be left in the car and used as a replacement for the SINGLE stock o2 sensor.

Other widebands are available, but this is my preference BURN1 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer, required to burn the above chip. Some tuners have these, so you MAY not need it Ostrich - Real Time ECM Emulator. An emulator simulates a chip, but can be re-programmed without removing it from the ecu. It can even be reprogrammed while the car is idling. You can use it to tune the car a LOT faster than burning chips over and over and over. You can then either burn the final tune to a chip and remove this and put the chip in place, or you can leave this in the ecu and never put a chip in.

This is for tuning only, has nothing to do with datalogging. I personally highly suggest this, it will pay for itsself by saving you lots of time/money on the dyno for the tuning. APU1 AutoProm Package: USB Version, same as the burner (chip programmer) and the emulator directly above and a bit more. Only necessary really for if you want to download maps from already programmed chips to your computer so you dont have to start from scratch if you dont already have the file saved. I dont suggest getting this unless you really really need it, or really really want to spend the extra money for features 90% of you wont ever use: HondaLog. Strictly for datalogging. Required for datalogging.

Doesnt include a usb cable. Can be bought in two versions: for internal mounting or external mounting: HULOG Honda USB Datalog Interface. Same as the above hondalog, but better. Includes usb cable. Is built into a protective plastic case. External mounting only. I would personally recommend getting this over the above HondaLog any day of the week all of the above is mainly designed for use with crome and crome pro.

Some of the parts can also be used for uberdata. The honda chip kit is required for hondata s200. None of the above is needed for hondata s300. Hondata s300 basically is all of the above included in one package in a different design the lc-1 wideband controller is a wideband sensor with built in controller with digital and analog outputs. It is recommended for all versions of honda tuning (including hondata), but not 100% necessary. Only way you wouldnt want to get it is if you dont plan to datalog air/fuel ratios.

If your tuner has a wideband, you dont need this, but it will make it easier and cheaper to tune your car if you have it. Links for the different forms of tuning are: hondata: (link is for the necessary parts which cost money. The programs for it are free) (crome and crome pro: (this is for the program only)(crome is free.

Crome pro costs $150, but is very well worth it) (not necessary if your tuner already has crome pro) (crome pro is needed if you have boost) ((info on crome, crome pro, and uberdata. And some stuff on hondata) uberdata: (I DO NOT recommend using this free program.

It sucks, and has lots and lots of bugs) i actually cant find the link for it, which is a good thing. But pgmfi.org has info on it if you dare try it and risk destroying your motor megasquirt (for experienced and knowledgable tuners only) http://www.megasquirt.info/. If your car has obd1 plugs for the ecu you can use these ecu's. If you car has other plugs, you can get a conversion harness to make yoru plugs obd1 and then you can use these ecu's. If your car is vtec you need a vtec ecu. If your car is non-vtec, you can use any of these ecu's: P05 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic CX (D15B) P06 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic DX (D15B) P07 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic VX (D15Z1) P08 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic/CRX VTi/VXi (sohc vtec) PR4 (: 92-93 OBD (Integra RS/LS/GS (B18A) P28 (: 92-95 OBD (Civic Si/Ex (sohc vtec d16z6) P61 (: 92-93 OBD (Integra GSR (dohc vtec b18c) P71 (: 92-95 OBD (Integra (sohc vtec d16a) P72 (: 94-95 OBD (Integra GSR (dohc vtec b18c) P74/75 (94-95 OBD (Integra RS/LS/GS (b18b) these are the parts for chipping an ecu.

Some are necessary, some arent. Some of the ones that arent, are highly suggested though: Ok.

Pokemon Rom Editor

1 thing outta this list is really needed, and a few things are not needed, ever. HONDA1 - honda ecu chipping kit, this is the kit required to actually chip the car. Includes one chip: This contains everything needed to Chip the ECU C2 SST 27SF512 Chip, if you want additional chips. The above kit includes one of these: You only need this if your gonna use a 2 timer.

If you dont know what that is, then you have absolutely NO need for this. The 256 bit ROM is more than enough for 1 set of Fuel and Ign Maps. LC-1 Lambda Cable w/ O2 Sensor (Standalone WBO2). Not necessary, but suggested. It is required if you plan to datalog. It also can be left in the car and used as a replacement for the SINGLE stock o2 sensor: Only 'required' to read your O2 content in the exaust stream. NOT needed to datalog.

BURN1 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer, required to burn the above chip. Some tuners have these, so you MAY not need it This is a ROM burner. It IS needed if you plan to burn ROM's. Ostrich - Real Time ECM Emulator. An emulator simulates a chip, but can be re-programmed without removing it from the ecu. It can even be reprogrammed while the car is idling.

You can use it to tune the car a LOT faster than burning chips over and over and over. You can then either burn the final tune to a chip and remove this and put the chip in place, or you can leave this in the ecu and never put a chip in. This is for tuning only, has nothing to do with datalogging. I personally highly suggest this, it will pay for itsself by saving you lots of time/money on the dyno for the tuning. Not a neccessity, at all. If your poor, you dont need this, at all. APU1 AutoProm Package: USB Version, same as the burner (chip programmer) and the emulator directly above and a bit more.

Only necessary really for if you want to download maps from already programmed chips to your computer so you dont have to start from scratch if you dont already have the file saved. I dont suggest getting this unless you really really need it, or really really want to spend the extra money for features 90% of you wont ever use: only real difference is the ability to READ chips.

The AP Lab manual to complete the lab. 3.11 AP Lab 3 Mitosis and Meiosis. AP Biology Lab 9 - Download as PDF. She currently teaches AP Biology.AP Biology Lab Manual. You can download the full AP Biology Teacher lab manual. Lab 7: Cell Division: Mitosis and Meiosis. Lab 11: Transpiration.

I find it very neccessary to do this at times. I would rather get this over the BURN1. Strictly for datalogging. Required for datalogging.

Doesnt include a usb cable. Can be bought in two versions: for internal mounting or external mounting: not a requirement. There are alternative methods.

Nokia USB cable, MAX323. HULOG Honda USB Datalog Interface. Same as the above hondalog, but better. Includes usb cable. Is built into a protective plastic case. External mounting only.

I would personally recommend getting this over the above HondaLog any day of the week nuff said all of the above is mainly designed for use with crome and crome pro. Some of the parts can also be used for uberdata. The honda chip kit is required for hondata s200. None of the above is needed for hondata s300. Hondata s300 basically is all of the above included in one package in a different design ALL of the above will work with Uberdata the lc-1 wideband controller is a wideband sensor with built in controller with digital and analog outputs.

It is recommended for all versions of honda tuning (including hondata), but not 100% necessary. Only way you wouldnt want to get it is if you dont plan to datalog air/fuel ratios. If your tuner has a wideband, you dont need this, but it will make it easier and cheaper to tune your car if you have it.

There are OTHER Wideband availible. PLX Zeitronix AEM MoTec FJO see whats right for you, your budget and application. Hondata: (link is for the necessary parts which cost money. The programs for it are free) ((Not neccissarily. Usually you have to get a hondata Tuner to TUne your car.

Crome and crome pro: (this is for the program only)(crome is free. Crome pro costs $150, but is very well worth it) (not necessary if your tuner already has crome pro) (crome pro is needed if you have boost) ((((info on crome, crome pro, and uberdata. And some stuff on hondata) I highly reccomend crome Pro. Uberdata: (I DO NOT recommend using this free program. It sucks, and has lots and lots of bugs) i actually cant find the link for it, which is a good thing. But pgmfi.org has info on it if you dare try it and risk destroying your motor haha. You make it sound like the devil.

It is NOT bad, and will NOT blow up your engine. Its JUST as stable as Crome Free/Pro - there are just ALOT of little tricks that you need to know to get a Basemap setup Properly, and running your car. But once that is done. Its a GOOD program. But again, i DONT remcomend it for people new to it. You sorta had to be with it from the start to know how to get it to do what you want. If your trying to come in at this stage.

Its gonna be really hard for you to get it running. Megasquirt (for experienced and knowledgable tuners only) No.

Just for the people that have no other options. Mega squirt is not reccomended.

To be honest, its really primitive. I dont like it. Ive tuned an RX7 with it. But yea, Crome and Uber run the car Way better. Edited the lc-1 part to say 'datalogging with air/fuel ratios in the datalogs'. This isnt necessary, just makes it easier.

There are other widebands available, i just prefer the lc-1 myself personally. Of course the emulator isnt needed.

It just makes life a million times easier in the tuning world lol. And cheaper overall by decreasing the time on the dyno, and the time for the tuner. As far as what i said botu hondata, i kinda figured everyone should know that already haha. The program is simply the program used to tune. It's not the tune itsself.

But this goes for all tuning programs. Uberdata is the devil!! I know its a good program if you know it well, but most people dont, including me. I dont know the bugs and fixes and stuff, so to me its the devil.:-). Uberdata is the devil!! I know its a good program if you know it well, but most people dont, including me. I dont know the bugs and fixes and stuff, so to me its the devil.:-) everything's the devil to you, mama!

I agree with rudelude. It may not be an easy program to learn, but once you're down with it, it runs the car just like all other programs. You just need a black belt in tuning, like me.:thefingerred: ok, i suck, but it has worked wonderfully for me! Oh, and you mentioned a vid. Do you have any vids of your car anywhere, rudelude? But i thought a few dyno runs would be necessary to simulate the load conditions the car would see in the real world, and tell you if you're doing any good.

Or do you just do some freeway onramp blasts, shoot for a proper A/F ratio with the tuning utility, and that works out just as well? Lemme see if I got this right. I'm still a little fuzzy on some of it, though.

1)I get the chip kit, either do it myself or find some Asian kid that does PS2 mods and have him do it. 2)Get the HULOG in there and hook it up to a laptop I've acquired somehow.

Also install Crome Pro. 3)Install my wideband O2 sensor (what does the wideband do that the normal one can't? Can't crome just read the stock o2 sensor readings?) 4)Try not to get pulled over while I tear ass down the street 5)Dick around with Crome to make adjustments Now here's where I'm confused: Does having my laptop hooked up to my ECU mean I can make real-time changes to the maps with just the HULOG, wideband, and software? Once I've made changes, I need to save the crome settings, go home, pull the eprom out, and burn it, right? But i thought a few dyno runs would be necessary to simulate the load conditions the car would see in the real world, and tell you if you're doing any good.

Or do you just do some freeway onramp blasts, shoot for a proper A/F ratio with the tuning utility, and that works out just as well? Lemme see if I got this right. I'm still a little fuzzy on some of it, though. 1)I get the chip kit, either do it myself or find some Asian kid that does PS2 mods and have him do it.

2)Get the HULOG in there and hook it up to a laptop I've acquired somehow. Also install Crome Pro. 3)Install my wideband O2 sensor (what does the wideband do that the normal one can't? Can't crome just read the stock o2 sensor readings?) 4)Try not to get pulled over while I tear ass down the street 5)Dick around with Crome to make adjustments Now here's where I'm confused: Does having my laptop hooked up to my ECU mean I can make real-time changes to the maps with just the HULOG, wideband, and software?

Once I've made changes, I need to save the crome settings, go home, pull the eprom out, and burn it, right? You dont need crome pro if your tuner has the program.

If you want to spend the extra $150 for the program, go ahead. Then you can do whatever you want with it lol. But i would leave the changes up to someone who knows what they are doing. 1 and 2 are correct.

3 is also correct. A wideband o2 sensor has nothing to do with realtime readings. All o2 sensors give real-time readings. Real-time means as it is happening.

Wideband o2 sensors will detect and give signals and show a/f ratios of 8:1-20:1, or however you want to set it. And runs on 0-5 volt signal. Narrowband sensors (stock) only detect 14:1-15:1 a/f's, and run on 0-1 volt signal.

So basically, a stock narrowband sensor only can detect lean, normal, and rich, but not by how much. A wideband o2 will tell you your exact a/f ratio. Dont attempt number 4 feel free to try number 5, but unless you really know what you're doing, i wouldnt suggest it. When you tune a/f (fuel maps) you dont do acceleration runs like what you do on a dyno for a power run.

You need to have the motor stay at a constant speed that you determine, to match a row in the tuning program's maps, and make sure the motor stays at that rpm no matter what throttle position you are. A 3rd gear pull, is gas to the floor from low rpm to rev limiter.

That is practically useless when it comes to tuning. When you tune, you need to tune for all rpms and loads. Loads, meaning throttle positions, aka specific vacuum and boost pressures. More vacuum means less load, lower throttle position. Less vacuum, or more boost, means more load, or higher throttle position. Hulog is for datalogging.

Has nothing to do with tuning, or making changes. It simply will tell you what is going on in the motor. To make real-time changes to the tuning with the car running, you need the emulator, which is what actually stores the tuned information (fuel and ign maps) for the ecu. It takes the place of using a chip. You can use chips, but you cant do real-time tuning with chips. And tuning with chips takes goddamn forever to get right.

If you are going to use crome pro, my suggestions are to get: honda chip kit hulog lc-1 wideband, or whatever wideband you want that crome pro supports ostrich emulator this way you can datalog with actual air/fuel ratios, and the tune can be done without ever shutting the car off or having to pull the chip out of the computer every 1 or 2 minutes several hundred times haha. If you are using chips instead of an emulator, you cant change anything with the car running. You can only datalog, then look to see what needs to be changed and by how much, shut the car off, pull the chip out, make changes in crome, burn the changes to the chip, put the chip back in, start the car, datalog again and look whet needs to be changed next. It takes a loooooooong time using chips to get everything right; reliable and powerful and economical. And yes, you can tune the car to be economical at low rpms and loads for daily driving, while getting max power with no worry of gas mileage for higher rpms and loads any other questions? I'd be willing to answer.

Or rudelude could answer too, if he's not bored. He gets kinda strange when hes bored hahahaha. All I really wanted to knwo what exactly what i needed and where i wanted to go. All that stuff on your first post got me kinda confused as to what i realy need.

Now I know what kind of things I need to start getting together. So using the emulator, the tuner can tweak the maps all day long (hopefully not literally) from the driver's seat, then he only has to do one burn at the end of the day when everything's straight, right? Also, is it worth it to go through all of this when my only significant modification is going to be a mild cam upgrade? Other than that it's just intake and exhaust. Or should I wait until I go turbo, then save up for my turbo parts, chip parts, and a trailer to drag all this shit to a tuner? If you get an emulator, yes, the tuner can do everything from the driver's or passenger's seat, just hittin keys on the laptop and thats it.

At the end, when the final tune is perfect, you dont even have to burn a chip if you use an emulator. You can just leave the emulator plugged into the ecu. Simply unplug it from the laptop, hide the cables from view and from getting damaged, and you're good to go.

It's up to you if its worth it to tune before going turbo. You will deffinitely gain some power with a full tune, but it depends on whether you're willing to pay that much for 10-20hp. CIDgrad got almost 30hp gains for max hp, and about 20% increase in power almost everywhere else in the rpm range just with simple bolt ons and a full tune.

So thats up to you to decide. You'll need all the same parts anyway when you go turbo, so the only additional cost to tuning your car now compared to later, is the cost to actually have it tuned by a tuner, and the dyno fee. But even that can get pretty hefty. You dont need a tune with the parts you're gonna put on the motor, but the gains from those parts will be much higher if you get a full tune after installing them. Exactly instead of posting all sorts of links to the hundreds of links that contain this info, its a whole lot easier to just copy and paste, or type it out, so its right there to read all in once place.

And omega, you are correct lol. Called interpolation. The maps have set rpms for the columns. So you need to tune with the motor exactly at those rpms.

Then when that is all perfect for those specific rpms, you watch what is happening for the rpms between those numbers. And adjust the two rpm's, the one on each side, and adjust them slightly to affect the rpm that needs adjusting that isnt on the map.

Ok, that sounded confusing. So, like if your maps have rows for 2000 and 2500, and both are running a perfect 14.7 air/fuel ratio at -10psi (10psi of vacuum), but at 3250 your engine registers running a 14.8 or 14.9, then you would richen up the values on the map for 3000 and 3500 a hair, so it richens the motor at 3250. Interpolation is where the ecu automatically uses a calculation to in a sense 'average' out the values for the surrounding rpms and pressures to determine how to perfectly run the motor at values that arent in the mapping. Supplied the chipped P7x ecu (vtec disabled, ITB enabled), base tuned for my car, with the ostrige burner thing, serial cable, and a few extra chips (5)? For 320.00 (or something liek that) i dont need the wideband o2 or the A/F meter gauge thing.

Hell, you never said anything like that in our PMs back and forth. What can you do for the 89? (chipped ECU, harness, 4wire o2) the ecu is screwed up in it somehow. Im going to need a new ECU for it pretty soon (CEL with no codes). Lets do business:) - something alse abou that (guy. He will bend over backwards to help you.

I was amazed. He put me together a kit for a great price. It was not one of this regular combos, but i still got combo pricing.

You need a conversion harness if you have a 96+ lude, or a pk2 3g lude. Other than that, its just plugging it in and starting it up, and driving. And then getting the car tuned shortly after installing it. Thats it, nothing more, nothing less. As far as whether the car will start or not, and how well it runs, and if it will even run at all without causing damage, all depends on the basemap that is on the chip before getting it tuned.

If you buy from some chump thats never even tuned a car before, like 99% of the crap you see on ebay, chances are you'll blow your engine before you can even get it to a tuner, assuming it even starts. If you have someone knowledgable make the basemap, you should be fine to drive reliably for a decent amount of time. I just never suggest going full throttle on a basemap, unless i specify otherwise to a specific basemap for a specific setup. Stay away from ebay, stick to the ones known to do good work.

You need a conversion harness if you have a 96+ lude, or a pk2 3g lude. Other than that, its just plugging it in and starting it up, and driving.

And then getting the car tuned shortly after installing it. Thats it, nothing more, nothing less. As far as whether the car will start or not, and how well it runs, and if it will even run at all without causing damage, all depends on the basemap that is on the chip before getting it tuned. If you buy from some chump thats never even tuned a car before, like 99% of the crap you see on ebay, chances are you'll blow your engine before you can even get it to a tuner, assuming it even starts. If you have someone knowledgable make the basemap, you should be fine to drive reliably for a decent amount of time.

I just never suggest going full throttle on a basemap, unless i specify otherwise to a specific basemap for a specific setup. Stay away from ebay, stick to the ones known to do good work aight, thanks for the info. That cleared everything up for me. I'm planning to boost my H22 (once I've enjoyed it enough normally in my 3rd gen) and was planning on adding the s300 module from Hondata ($ching$ching$) and was wondering if anything else needs to be done to the ECU (like was said in the first post) or if it's just plug and go? We have one of the greatest tuners here in Ottawa who has worked on tuning the Orange supra for Fast and Furious; he's called Chris Tapp (his shop: Tapp Auto) and he's a certified Hondata Tuner as well so the tuning part is covered. Just wondering, if any of you guys have Hondata I'd like some feedback on it and the answer to the above question.

I checked their website and you're right i was looking at the wrong page. So the recommended ones are P28(civic) or P72(Teg)?

P28 is cheaper, but does not control the iab's. If you use a euro r intake mani or an sk2 mani, you dont need iab control at all though, so a p28 is the ideal choice. If you're using the stock intake mani with the iab's, p72 is a bit more ideal (but not necessary) but higher price. I sell both ecu's in case you're wondering, and i sell hondata systems, and i sell ecu's with s300 systems already installed as well. So feel free to pm me when you're ready to buy one.

P28 is cheaper, but does not control the iab's. If you use a euro r intake mani or an sk2 mani, you dont need iab control at all though, so a p28 is the ideal choice. If you're using the stock intake mani with the iab's, p72 is a bit more ideal (but not necessary) but higher price. I sell both ecu's in case you're wondering, and i sell hondata systems, and i sell ecu's with s300 systems already installed as well. So feel free to pm me when you're ready to buy one This may be a stupid question.lol. But you sell chipped ecu's.

And you also sell ecu's with s300 systems installed. Whats the difference? Isnt the s300 a chip?

S200 Features The s200 system has the following features:. Speed limiter removed (if applicable). Tunable fuel and ignition tables. Expanded fuel & ignition tables for boost. Expanded rpm fuel & ignition tables. A/C cutout. Shift light.

VTEC control. Adjustable rev limiter. Launch control.

Full throttle shift. Nitrous Control. Datalogging with HondaLogger software.

ROM Editor tuning software. If you are interested in tuning Hondata systems for other people see the page for more information. If you have a Stage 2/3/4, s100 or s200 and wish to upgrade, see the page.

Upgrading the s200 Since this product is now discontinued, the optional upgrades are no longer available and it is recommended to upgrade to the s300. Upgrade information can be found. ECU jumper J12 With the s200 it is recommended to cut jumper J12 inside the ECU. For US ECUs this jumper is located near the two vertical sub boards inside the ECU. For JDM ECUs remove J4 which is located on the top of the circuit board near CN2.

This jumper must be replaced if the ECU is used with a Stage 2/3/4 system.